Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Dinner: Monday, June 21, 2010


Counting down the days and the remaining to-dos before our Grand Tour. I didn't get a taste of the chicken thighs with Jeff's rub, hickory smoke, and Gates' BBQ sauce on Saturday (field reports were exemplary!), so I needed some-a that love. Coupla 1-3/4 inch thick pork chops from our CSA box, no smoke, but between the rub and the sauce and perfect grilling, it was oh so mighty tasty. Alongside we had another riff on one of my go-to summer side dishes. The ordinal version has me sauteing some chopped red onion and poblano chile in some olive oil. Then I add some diced summer squash (zucchini, crook-necked, patty pan) over high enough heat that the squash gets some toasty brown edges. Then I add 2-3 cobs worth of sweet corn cut off the cob, and (salt and pepper, of course) sauteed until the corn is tender. Finish with finely chopped fresh basil or cilantro or both.

This time, I had only the red onion, a few zucchini and some slightly tired cilantro. (Thought I'd include some roasted piquillo peppers to represent the capsaicins, but I found, yet again, that jarred roasted peppers have a very short shelf life once they're opened before they mold) Not to worry. Thawed some frozen organic corn under running water, and once onions, zucchini, and corn were sauteing nicely, I added one minced chipotle in adobo. Tasted it with the slightly meager handful of cilantro and decided it needed a little zing along with the smoky chili-ness, provided by the juice of half a lime.

Finally, garnished some butter lettuce with sliced french radishes and scallions, crumbled sheep's milk feta*, and dressed with sherry wine vinegar and olive oil.

*I wanted sort of the salty / crumbly quality which is associated with cotija to go with the radishes, etc., but most of what I've ever found here is kind of rubbery and bland and corporate. The feta gave me what I wanted to soften the flavors of the salad while adding some character.

Dinner: Sunday, June 20th, 2010

My sincere apologies for the delay on the crawfish boil post. Evidently we used up all of our good karma escaping the chilly drizzle that passes for summer this year in Portland on Saturday, so we're taking good hearty zaps of bad karma now such as Rachel's tie-dye t-shirt catching fire in the microwave and Blogger failing to save 2-1/2 hours of what I humbly say was a pretty f-ing good write-up on the berl. (Holy c--p, hope my plane doesn't crash tomorrow!) It'll come, y'all, but bear with me, I gotta regroup.

Slept WAY in on Sunday but roused ourselves to do the clean up earlier rather than later so that we could return our gracious neighbors' driveway to some semblance of normalcy. Can't imagine what our water bill will be this quarter, between the sewerage bill for the wettest May-June on record, and water use for rinsing the crawfish, cleaning up, etc.

Then we were laying very very low...When dinner rolled around, we reheated some leftover red beans, cooked some fresh rice, and fried up some very tasty goat chorizo (from our Deck Farms CSA box). Pulled a couple of glasses of cold Laurelwood Mother Lode Golden from the remaining keg and then hunkered down for the last episode of the season of Treme. This show is incredible, and has convinced us both that we need to go back and watch the Wire--I know, I know! All our friends already love it, but we just hadn't invested the time to get hooked. We'll be on it when we get back...

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Dinner: Friday, June 18th, 2010


  • Pizza with artichoke hearts and black olives
  • Pizza with pepperoni and red onion
Yesterday a friend who follows this blog mentioned that she's waiting for an entry where it says we had fast food for dinner. Well, here goes! Trying to conserve energy for the crawfish boil, we ordered pizza from Rocket Pizza on NE 42nd. We like their pizza--it would never rate on the East Coast, but it has a nice crisp crust; they use a very sparing hand with all toppings, including the cheese, so it's not greasy, and a simple sauce that doesn't overwhelm with oregano or sweetness. And they deliver.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Dinner: Thursday, June 17th


Ma Po Tofu
Brown Basmati Rice
Gai choy

Glad that I read the online comments on the tofu which pointed out that the recipe says it serves 4, but it's so tasty that it actually serves 2-3. So I doubled, since my dad is visiting. It's almost addictive. I think I'd use ground pork next time, but it'll definitely be in the rotation. Easy and really great.

Dinner: Wednesday, June 16, 2010


Smoky Spanish-style Pan Roast
Butter lettuce salad with sherry vinaigrette

Was very pleased to have Mark Bittman get a feature in my favorite food mag--Cooking Light, especially since the theme is "Less meat, more flavor" which is exactly where our head is at these days. We love meat and don't want to eliminate it from our diet but are looking to re-factor its role--more vegetarian meals, more meals where meat is a seasoning rather than the main ingredient, and meat is (almost) always locally sourced, pasture raised.

Because I was out doing a shop for the crawfish boil (T-minus 3 days), it was easier to buy the ingredients in double quantities and we always like leftovers 'round here (for lunches, etc) so I cooked it in doubles which I think crowded the ingredients a bit and led to some liquid that needed to be cooked off when the primary ingredients (potatoes, shrimp, beans) were done. Also, we basically tripled the smoked paprika as it wouldn't have come through as much as we wanted it to. Chorizo from Gartner's was quite perky, heat-wise.

I think I liked it less than anybody else, mainly because the beans were kind of mediocre and tough. It was good enough that I want to make it again with local beans and more space to cook.


Dinner: Tuesday, June 15th, 2010


Met with a lawyer to get durable power of attorney and answer some questions about moving Louise (my mom-in-law) in with us. Since the cold rain continued, needed something quick and hearty. I think black-eyed peas are very underrated and it's nice that they don't need pre-soaking.
  • Black-eyed peas and rice
Used the porky liquid left over from the last time I made beans. Didn't have to do ANYTHING ELSE and they were delish. (Except a few chopped green onions).

Dinner, Monday, June 14, 2010


  • Hamburgers with bacon, tomato and onion
  • Beans (Bush's "Grillin' Beans: Southern Pit Barbeque")
I volunteered at the Da Vinci 8th grade promotion ceremony today. Mario graciously took care of a very tasty dinner.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Dinner, Sunday, June 13, 2010


  • Grilled halibut
  • Asparagus risotto with saffron
  • Butter lettuce and romaine salad with french radishes, avocado and red onion
There is a platonic ideal of halibut that Mario and I always invoke as a benchmark. We cooked and ate it several years ago when we were vacationing in Yachats. We bought it from the fishmonger in town who bought directly from the local fishermen. We grilled it with nothing but a little olive oil, salt and pepper. It was almost ethereal--slightly gelatinous, tender, with the pure almost fishless halibut flavor of the sea. It had a very slightly pink tinge like the lightest pink inside a seashell. Absolutely gorgeous.

Well, last night's came as close as any we've had. It was a promising specimen when we bought it at the farmer's market--almost two inches thick and with that beautiful pink tinge. Cooked it
the same way--not too hot of a grill, olive oil, salt and pepper. Took it off before it was cooked through--about 12 minutes total. Amazing.

I made a risotto to go alongside. Tiny slender asparagus, some saffron, lemon zest, parmesan. And Mario put together a delicious salad.

And on the second of TWO CONSECUTIVE sunny days, with temperatures above 75℉. Hooray.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Brunch, Sunday, June 13th, 2010


Tasso and Eggs

Tasso from Laurelhurst Market deemed "authentic" by resident expert...now thinking how else we might use it: Shrimp and Grits w/Tasso, Jambalaya, thinly sliced in Eggs Benedict, Fettucini with Tasso and crawfish....

Dinner: Friday, June 11th, 2010

Pizza margherita, with freshly made sauce and buffalo mozzarella.

I want to try the recipe / method in the NYTimes for making the crust. I intended to do that this time, not realizing that it has some fairly esoteric flour requirements. So punted and used TJ's pizza dough which is...adequate. Still, a nice simple Friday dinner an the toppings were impeccable.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Farmer's market: Saturday, June 12


Finally! The sun is out! And the market showed very welcome signs of summer.
  • Halibut Filet
  • Bay shrimp
  • Asparagus
  • Cherries (1st of the season!)
  • Hood strawberries (1/2 flat)
  • Sugar snap peas
  • Carrots
  • Beets
  • "Italian" zucchini
  • Fingerling potatoes
  • Milk
  • Quart of honey
  • Treats for Rachel: Mini-strawberry lemonade cupcake, raspberries and white chocolate buttercream sandwiched between two flower shaped chocolate shortbread cookies
  • Pork Tamale
  • Dhosa
There's a new stand at the market selling Dhosas filled with curried potatoes and fresh coconut relish. In case you've never had a dhosa, it is like a large lacy crepe made from a batter of fermented rice flour. Very delicious and reminded us how much we love Indian food, but we cook it relatively seldom because it is relatively labor intensive. I'm sure we'll do "takeaway curry" at least a couple of times while we're in London. Gonna have to take a break on the tamales--they haven't seemed as good the last couple of times we got them.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Dinner: Thursday, June 10th


  • Rabbit with Mustard Sauce
  • Red Cabbage Agrodolce
  • Roasted carrots
"The rabbit kicked the bucket...the bucket, the bucket kicked the rabbit...the rabbit..."

A good friend gave us A Platter of Figs by David Tanis, who has been executive chef at Chez Panisse, etc. and has bona fides as long as my arm. It's a book that makes you itch to cook every menu. We've made several fantastic recipes--deconstructed Salade Nicoise, Salmon with Vietnamese cucumbers, Corn, Squash and Beans with Jalapeño Butter, Pink Borscht. I had been eyeing the rabbit recipe for a long time.

Laurelhurst Market had locally sourced rabbits on the chalkboard when we had dinner there a few weeks ago...and...though I had no prejudice against eating rabbit, I was encouraged by an article in the food section of the Boregonian about local purveyors and the relative sustainability of rabbit meat. So...on Tanis' recommendation I made crème fraîche a few days ago from scratch (scald heavy cream, add some plain yogurt as culture, let sit for 12-24 hours at room temperature), procured myself a spanking fresh rabbit at Laurelhurst Market (along with some house-made Tasso and a hunk of irresistible head cheese from Tails and Trotters) and proceeded to make his Rabbit with Mustard Sauce.

It's easy peasy. Marinate said bunny in crème fraîche, dijon mustard (try TJ's--it's got the kind of kick you don't usually find in domestic mustards), bay leaves, fresh thyme and sage, batons of smoky bacon, lots of sliced garlic. Then roast in a hot oven, turning occasionally. One thing didn't go as the recipe said--even when the rabbit was definitely done, the sauce had not reduced significantly and was pretty loose. The recipe indicated you might need to add liquid to the pan while cooking. Hmmm. So I just pulled out the rabbit pieces and reduced the sauce over high heat on the stove top--one of the great things about cooking with crème fraîche is that it doesn't break even at a high boil. Cooked it down to a lovely consistency like a barely whipped cream, and napped the meat.

It was...it was...so GOOD! Lush, slightly funky with the applewood smoked bacon and herbs, the mustard present but not overly dominant.

Tanis pairs this with parsnips, but we had a beautiful bunch of heirloom carrots so I roasted those, and then (inspiration strikes!) it occurred to me that we had 3/4 of a red cabbage in the fridge that wasn't getting any younger...and wouldn't cavolo in agrodolce (AKA sweet-sour cabbage) be a nice compliment? Oh! My, yes, it would.

Glass of Côtes du Rhones...Mais, oui. Bon Appetit!



Dinner: Wednesday, June 9, 2010


Lydia Bastianich seldom (if ever?) disappoints, and this frittata was no exception.

As she says, "This is a different sort of frittata, not the neat golden round of well-set eggs that's probably most familiar. Here the eggs are in the skillet for barely a minute, just long enough to gather in soft, loose folds, filled with morsels of asparagus and shreds of prosciutto. In fact, when I make this frittata or the "dragged" eggs—uova strapazzate —I leave my eggs still wet and glistening so I can mop up the plate with a crust of country bread. That's the best part of all."

We had some beautiful slender asparagus, so this was a no brainer. We had three eggs left from Mario's colleague's hens which we supplemented with some organic free range eggs from TJ's. It was so striking seeing both eggs in the bowl before I whisked them. The TJ's yolks were so small and pallid in comparison to the huge vivid orange yolks of our local eggs. We will surely miss our weekly supply over the summer. I would like to make this with prosciutto, but I used some thick applewood smoked bacon we had on hand and it was all lovely.

For the salad, Costco has been carrying imported fresh buffalo mozzarella at a very reasonable price. I snagged some for pizza this week, and decided to use some for an antipasto substituting cherry tomatoes for regular tomatoes and dashing out in the pouring rain (ARRRRRRRGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!) for a few half-drowned leaves of basil.


Dinner: Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Rachel's Night to Cook AKA Girl Meets Food
  • Vegetable Crisp
  • Salad
  • Crusty bread w/ Olive oil
Another delicious dish from Girlosophy: Real Girls Eat. Basically a gratin of eggplant, summer squash and red onion. But a nice technique that increased the flavor of the finished product: The sliced veggies are tossed with tomato puree, garlic, herbs, salt and pepper and sit for an hour (or a little less in this case because Rachel was working on her poetry portfolio project and started dinner rather late) before going into the gratin dish to be topped with crumbs and cheese an into the oven.




Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Peri's Rules for Entertaining

Last Saturday evening we enjoyed a lovely al fresco dinner at the home of some new friends. (Yes! For one evening only, it was nice enough to eat outside!) As I thought about it, I was reminded of the following list of rules that Mario and I wrote up a couple of years ago. Anyone have other rules we should add?

  1. Offer your guests drinks immediately upon arrival.
  2. Put plenty of ice in your guests’ drinks. Your guests will not be offended if you do this.
  3. If you are not sure you will have enough ice, buy a bag!
  4. Have something for your guests to nibble on after they get their drinks, no matter how simple or small.
  5. Put salt and pepper dispensers on your table. Your guests will not be offended if you do this.
  6. If the recipe calls for salt, put it in the dish.
  7. If you are baking something and the recipe calls for salt, it is absolutely imperative that you put the salt in the recipe.
  8. If you are baking something and the recipe does not call for salt, it is absolutely imperative that you find another recipe.
  9. Create a menu for your guests’ pleasure, not yours.
  10. You can never go wrong with comfort food. Modify for vegans and vegetarians as needed.
  11. Get in the kitchen and cook. No one ever lost a friend by inviting them over to dinner.
You do not need a beautiful home, or a gourmet’s kitchen or expensive china to entertain. You just need a place to cook and eat and a feeling of sincere hospitality in order to delight your guests.


Dinner: Monday, June 7, 2010




Here we must give mad props to our pal, The Super Bongo, both for her highly enjoyable blog and her recipe for lettuce wraps. We must, however, quibble with her claim that the recipe will serve the Red Army, because it is so delicious that a mere four people ate far more than they should have making a serious dent in the anticipated leftovers.

Soon we'll have to try her ferociously competitive Chinese Chicken Salad....

The Super Bongo's Lettuce Wraps
the sauce:

Jar of hoisin sauce
couple of teaspoons rice vinegar
juice from a large orange
red pepper if you like

for the stir fry:

Chicken chopped up ( I use a three chicken breasts and a packet of tenderloins)
8oz mushrooms chopped up . . . shiitake or what you like
can of water chestnuts, chopped up
green onions chopped
3-4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
couple tablespoons grated ginger

I add the garlic and ginger towards the end of the stirfry, and then top with the sauce and let it all come together. . Then use butter lettuce leaves for eating. I also serve with wedges of orange to squeeze over the top of each wrap.

Monday, June 7, 2010

Lunch: Saturday, June 5th, 2010

Had some leftover seafood louis sauce from last weekend's crab louis so assembled some red oak leaf and romaine lettuce, a few cucumbers and a sliver of tomato topped with bay shrimp and louis sauce. Yum.

Farmer's market: Saturday, May 5th

  • Gai lan
  • Carrots
  • 1/2 flat first Hood strawberries of the season (hallelujah!)
  • Jersey 2% milk
  • New potatoes
  • Spring chinook
  • Bay shrimp
  • Asparagus
  • Cucumbers
  • Romaine and red leaf lettuce
  • Coconut, raspberry and mint chocolate chip mini-cupcakes, and dark chocolate dipped strawberries for Rachel
Also picked up some very inexpensive organic garden starts at the Grocery Outlet--roma, green zebra, and golden pear cherry tomatoes, sweet banana, early red, jalapeno, and yellow peppers, pole beans, cucumbers, mesclun and red romaine lettuces. Might get some kind of melon as a lark. Going to try growing the tomatoes upside down. I know, I know...but all the kids are doin' it!

Dinner: Sunday, June 6, 2010

  • Spring chinook with miso glaze
  • Gai laan with sizzle
  • Sticky rice
  • Cucumber salad with toasted sesame seeds and nori
I thinned out some white miso with mirin and added a pinch of sugar and spread it on the flesh side of the salmon, roasted at 425℉.


Dinner: Friday, June 4th, 2010


Fire on the Mountain (Burnside location)

Wings, natch. Sauces: Hot, Spicy peanut, lime cilantro. Sweet potato fries (I had banana ketchup, Murray had Heinz). Coupla IPAs (Hub, Laurelwood, respectively). Very good blues trio.

Rachel scarfed the leftovers after the dance.

I would have never anticipated that a wings place would become a dining destination. Damn!

Dinner: Thursday, June 3rd

Salad Rolls
I LOVE salad rolls, especially with the rich sweet hoisin peanut dipping sauce. Our first attempt to make them at home and we have a ways to go getting competent assembling them--the rice paper sheets were sticking to our plates and then tearing as we tried to wrap them, especially if overloaded with filling. Still--even if eaten as a salad with no roll, such a perfectly refreshing meal. Maybe shrimp or grilled pork next time...though the tofu was tasty.

And bonus was having the leftovers when I got home from seven straight hours of decorating the Da Vinci gym for the last dance of the year...


Thursday, June 3, 2010

Dinner: Wednesday, June, 2010


  • Charbroiled Oysters à la Dragos
  • Salad with capers and piquillo peppers
  • Marsee's supposedly french baguette
We have been working to optimize the process for making charbroiled oysters as they are served at Dragos, Acme, and elsewhere in NOLA. Originally we would put the unopened oysters on the grill, Mario would pick them up once they popped, pull off the top shell, then we'd spoon on some of the garlic butter and top them with cheese and parsley.

Pain in the ass, it was hard to keep up, so some oysters got overcooked, most of the liquor got dumped out, huge flareups from the butter dripping, yada, yada. So Mario started shucking them first which was a significant improvement. Last night, rather than using melted garlic butter, I made a compound butter with garlic, parsley, and a couple shots of Tabasco. So we put a pat of butter in each shucked oyster and topped it with cheese before putting them on the grill. Et voilà, not as much butter run-off, a much more manageable process.

We've kind of decided that bluepoints are the optimal oyster for charbroiling--the Netarts are good, but shells are more irregular and the intense mineral flavor is somewhat overwhelming. Still, these are great and this method is a keeper.

Finally, a brief rant. WTF does Marsee bakery think they're doing? This is Portland! City of real bread! Your "french baguette" tastes like what supermarkets used to call French Bread in the seventies. Feh.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Dinner: Tuesday, June 1, 2010


I've made this "risotto" several times. It doesn't require the attention of a true risotto yet barley has a similar toothsomeness to well-cooked arborio.

This seems like an autumnal dish--perfectly suited to our Junuary weather.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Dinner: Monday, May 31, 2010 (Memorial Day)




The sun finally came out! Once again the weather forecast was wrong, but this time, it was in our favor. I spent a couple of hours yanking some truly prehistoric-looking weeds followed by a nice gin and tonic on the porch.
  • Grilled chinook
  • Buttered asparagus
  • Kristin's new potato / arugula salad (recipe follows)
  • Rhubarb crisp with cream

New Potato and Arugula salad

Boil new potatoes (preferably tiny, or fingerlings like Russian banana) in salted water until just tender. Drain and let cool slightly.

Cut in half or quarters to approximately 1/2" pieces. Add a few handfuls of arugula and 2-3 green onions sliced thin.

Dress with good olive oil, white wine vinegar, sea salt and fresh ground pepper to taste.

Serve immediately.